Here’s proof that smoking can be good for you, as long as you stick to fish. Suffolk-based Chapel & Swan have spent more than 25 years perfecting the subtle arts of salmon smoking, which centre around maintaining a delicate balance between salt, smoke and fish. Blackened brick kilns fuelled by gently smouldering Black Forest oak are important, but the quality of the fish is also key. Only superior grade salmon from Scottish and Scandinavian waters is used, while young fish, no more than 14 months old, are preferred because of their compact, lean flesh.

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